Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
