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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.